Challenge 2016 - Peter Bowen - HO Whitstones Brewing Company

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This is for all registered members with access to the forum. (This is everyone who subscribes to Region Services).
Online modeling competitions and challenges will be announced here.
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PeterBowen
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Challenge 2016 - Peter Bowen - HO Whitstones Brewing Company

Post by PeterBowen » Tue Sep 06, 2016 5:58 pm

OK I know I am too early for the 2016/2017 Winter building challenge but I just could not wait any longer and besides I had a request from a Canadian friend who has asked if I could build a Bar Mills HO "Shipyard Brewing Company" kit for him.

My friend wants the signage to be replaced with Whitstones after a famous fish and chip restaurant in Shepton Mallet that he really likes to go to when he visits, so Whitstone's Brewing Company it is.

So here you go - I will try and explain a step by step building process and hopefully inspire others to do the same...!!! - it really is quite easy and most of all it is FUN...!

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The first step is to OPEN the box and look inside, and yes it looks like all of the pieces are in there somewhere.

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Please read through the instructions...

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OK so you don't like reading the manual but in this case it is a good idea to familiarise yourself with all of the "bits" in the box.

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Next, spread all of the component parts out taking care not to remove any otherwise you will not be able to find them - there are some very small parts and they are difficult to find! Plus it is much easier to paint parts that are attached.

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In the instructions it suggests that all of the wall sections should be reinforced with framing to "stiffen" them up because as you can see they are quite thin and when you apply any paint to them and I generally like to use Vallejo acrylic paints because they are of good quality and can be applied by brush or airbrush they do tend to warp if not framed first.

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The kit includes a good supply of stripwood for framing and the instructions also say that you can use any additional stripwood that you might have for the framing process.

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And it does not have to be so fancy as it will not be seen and only serves to add strength and prevent the thin walls from "curling" in the paint process.

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I highly recommend using "Super Phatic" glue instead of any other wood glue. The reason for this is that this glue is thin, non-fuming low odour, water clean up plus it penetrates into the grain of the wood much further than other glues and provides better joints on balsa, ply, GRP, plastic hinges, foam and carbon fibre. It is simply perfect for very strong joints on even the smallest parts.
Peter Bowen
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Prototype information and historic photos

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Re: Challenge 2016 - Peter Bowen - HO Whitstones Brewing Com

Post by PeterBowen » Wed Sep 07, 2016 3:18 pm

Reinforcing the wall sections before painting.

The first stage in joining the main structure wall sections together.

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A strong joint here is important even though the wall will be reinforced from the inside.

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The inside framing using the supplied stripwood.

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Note the additional cross bracing to prevent any wall movement.

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Nearing completion of inside wall bracing.

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Clamps and weights are used to hold the pieces together until the glue dries.

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Once the joints have dried they are extremely strong and form a rigid surface on to which paint can be applied.
Peter Bowen
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Re: Challenge 2016 - Peter Bowen - HO Whitstones Brewing Com

Post by PeterBowen » Thu Sep 08, 2016 3:52 pm

Primer for Walls

In the Bar Mills instructions it says to use a primer to seal the wood surfaces prior to painting.

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In the past I have used Halfords Grey Primer because it is relatively inexpensive and is easy to use.

And in this case I am using it as the final colour coat for most of the detail parts like the doors and accent walls etc.

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When using this type of aerosol paint be careful and use light passes and remember that the intent is only to seal the wood and act as a primer. Don't soak the wood with heavy wet coats of paint it just is not necessary.

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A nice light dusting is all that is required.

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The kit includes self adhesive tar paper and roofing shingles (tiles for the Brits)

Note: In colder climates like Canada and the northern US states roofs are generally covered with asphalt or bitumen based roofing materials instead of clay tiles. This is because clay tiles cannot withstand the extreme temperature differences from very cold to very hot whereas bitumen roofing material called shingles and cedar roofing called shakes are not adversely affected.

Painting the Walls in Blue

I am using Vallejo paints which I can highly recommend for the quality of the paint colours which can be airbrushed or brush painted and they can be easily mixed to create different shades of the base colour.

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I am using a mix of Vallejo No. 839 Ultramarine which is quite a vibrant blue and to tone it done I am mixing in Vallejo No. 309 Periscopes which is a green hued blue colour. The resulting mix in my opinion is close to the type of colour typically found on painted structures in New England.

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Applying the mixture with a paint brush and flowing the paint horizontally along the lines of the scribed siding gives the effect of some weathering on the individual boards. If I had wanted an even uniform coating of paint over the entire surface I would have used an airbrush but here I wanted to be able to pick out individual painted boards. This wall will be weathered further after the windows have been inserted into their openings.

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This photo shows that even after primer and a top coat of the blue colour has been applied the walls are nice and square and have not curled.

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Some walls have been left in the grey primer colour and will receive some weathering in due course.

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The quality of the parts in this kit are very fine and the detail is excellent. Here the loading dock components have been assembled.

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This shows how the various parts start to come together. The structure is a series of sub assemblies. This is a good method of building as you can see some progress along the way.
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Re: Challenge 2016 - Peter Bowen - HO Whitstones Brewing Com

Post by PeterBowen » Tue Sep 13, 2016 6:59 am

Windows

The windows are plastic parts and finely detailed.

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The windows fit very easily and are a press fit into the walls.

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This shows the windows weathered and minus glazing applied to the painted walls.

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Adding the glazing makes the windows come alive.

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These parts are supplied with individual glazing on precut sheet.

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Photo here shows how to apply the glazing to the reverse side of the windows.

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The glazing comes with a tissue paper backing which I have left in place which adds to the effect of dirty windows inside.

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Re: Challenge 2016 - Peter Bowen - HO Whitstones Brewing Com

Post by PeterBowen » Tue Sep 20, 2016 2:27 pm

I have had Canadian friends visiting for the past week and have been unable to make any progress on this build, but here's what i got up to last night...!

I have installed the windows and doors into the main wall section.

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Here I am starting to 'dry fit' prior to applying glue the side wall section.

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Large clamps are needed to attach the side walls in place. I always try to glue and clamp to produce a good strong joint.

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Plus using smaller clamps for smaller items.

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The larger clamps shown here holding the side wall in position while the glue dries.

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And on the opposite end as well. The clamps will stay in place for a few hours to ensure a strong bond.

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Re: Challenge 2016 - Peter Bowen - HO Whitstones Brewing Com

Post by PeterBowen » Wed Sep 21, 2016 12:45 pm

Applying the Roofing Shingles (tiles) to the roof.

Here I have pre-spayed the supplied roofing material with a light dusting of Halfords Grey primer.

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The supplied roof is a piece of card that has printed guide lines on one side.

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The roofing material is self stick on a paper backing sheet.

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The common practice with laying prototype roofing shingles is to lay the first course upside down to create a nice straight edge along the eaves as shown here:

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The next course is laid on top of the first course as shown here.

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The completed first line of 'diamond shaped' shingles in place.

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As each successive course is laid and offset as shown below the 'diamond' pattern begins to show.

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The completed roof, note the uneven and random colouring of the roof shingles, this is quite typical.

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A close-up view showing the nice pattern and colouration effect.

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To add a further dimension to the roof shingles I 'lift' random tiles to shown the effect of weathering where some begin to lift in the wind etc.

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The finished effect is very realistic as shown in this detail photo.

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Applying the roof to the structure


Laying the upturned structure on to the underside of the roof.

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And the roof in position.

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I have made the roof detachable at this stage so that I can apply the other roof structures and enable working on a flat surface.

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Re: Challenge 2016 - Peter Bowen - HO Whitstones Brewing Com

Post by PeterBowen » Thu Sep 22, 2016 1:13 pm

I have found a really cool way of holding parts firmly other than using clamps:

I have a few two-drawer metal filing cabinets on to which I have a green cutting mat attached. I then use ceramic magnets (ebay).

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The magnets can be used as weights for small parts

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And for holding parts so they do not move..!

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Re: Challenge 2016 - Peter Bowen - HO Whitstones Brewing Com

Post by PeterBowen » Thu Sep 22, 2016 1:56 pm

Moving on with the construction of the Cupola that sits on top of the hoist building

The sides are held together with bar clamps

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Note the amazing detail of the louvered openings...!

The roof is a pre cut piece of card stock and the instructions say to glue this together... This requires some ACC.

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After the ACC has dried the resulting piece is a glue impregnated solid structure that holds its shape.

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I use Vallejo acrylic paints and have found that No. 305 is a perfect match for Halfords Grey Primer and is perfect for all of the small touch ups that are needed.

I also chose to paint the roof of the cupola a green colour and No. 334 is perfect for the job.

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Dry fitting the hoist building on to the main roof

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The completed roof for the hoist building

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Further dry fitting the hoist building components to check for fit on the main roof

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The completed sub assembly

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The loft annex roof is completed

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The loft annex which will be fitted to the main roof is completed

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The main roof is reinforced to make it rigid

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The loft annex and hoist building are applied to the main roof for fit

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The loft annex is applied to the main roof

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The hoist building is attached to the main roof

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Re: Challenge 2016 - Peter Bowen - HO Whitstones Brewing Com

Post by PeterBowen » Fri Sep 23, 2016 9:36 am

The final assembly stages

Attaching a sheet of 0.060" styrene to the back of the building. The supplied card is very flimsy and even with bracing it is likely to warp with changes in Canadian humidity, since this building will be situated in a Canadian environment it will need to withstand drastic changes in environment, something that we don't really experience in the UK.

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The building front and stairway are attached to the main structure

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Roofing is applied

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My friend wanted the name of the building changed to something which would remind him of his trips to England and a certain Fish and Chip restaurant in Shepton Mallet called "Whitstones" - so we have a name for the building - "Whitstones Brewing Company" hence the name of this series of articles.

The lettering was done using Photoshop and printed on to glossy photo paper

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I like to use Tamiya weathering chalks to dull down the sign and show some age

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And the final result

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Other signs were made in the same way and then glued on to the structure

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And a little humour...!

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Loading dock is added

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Details are added

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The structure is complete

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Peter Bowen
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Re: Challenge 2016 - Peter Bowen - HO Whitstones Brewing Com

Post by deanobeano » Fri Sep 23, 2016 10:38 pm

Hi Peter,

A very nice kit build and a process story well told.

Kind regards

Dean
Dean Halls

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