Build a structure - Kathy Millatt - Treadwell and Ware

Suffering from the 'Plywood Pacific' look? Share your scenery & structure questions and tips here...
Post Reply
kathymillatt
Posts: 39
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
Contact:

Build a structure - Kathy Millatt - Treadwell and Ware

Post by kathymillatt » Mon Nov 10, 2014 3:29 pm

Well, I haven't modelled anything serious since my last AP stuff in April so this is just the kick up the back side that I need.

I have decided to do one of the dioramas that will slot into my layout. My layout is in my loft and to leverage more space, a friend suggested that I build multiple dioramas to slot into the same gap.

This is the location on the layout:

Image

There are three potential kits with that level of river water drop (they all have to have the same scenic base to fit in the one location.

There are three options but I would swap the extensions and add-ons around. This is one:

Image

This is the one I am going to choose. It's a mix of Treadwell and Ware Knitters.

Image

Treadwell was Bob's second kit from 1989. That's 25 years' old!

http://www.southrivermodelworks.com/page120.html

Ware Knitters was Bob Van Gelder's 4th kit and is 23 years' old:

http://www.southrivermodelworks.com/page140.html

Both are beautiful kits and I am combining them because they have the same stone work courses. Ware Knitters and Treadwell are quite small so this gives a larger mill complex.

I dug out the base. The competition says that you can't have started the structures yet, which I haven't, but I did build all three diorama bases several years ago to ensure that they fitted in the layout spot. For those of you with long memories, 4 years ago I posted this: http://www.kathymillatt.co.uk/blog/2010 ... -dioramas/

Image

I got the kit boxes out (for all three dioramas) and spent half the weekend scratching my head over how to fit it into the space I have given that all three dioramas will be built to fit in the same space with the same fascia profile. It doesn't actually work as originally planned so everything is moving half an inch or so.

Work on the structure will start after 1st December but I think I will be spending all that time trying to get the jigsaw puzzle to work!

kathymillatt
Posts: 39
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Build a structure - Kathy Millatt - Treadwell and Ware

Post by kathymillatt » Wed Dec 03, 2014 8:57 am

In a fit of enthusiasm on Monday night, I got going on my structure. The first stage to any big South River kit is preparing the castings. They are always excellent quality so a light sanding on the back and sides is enough. I write the part number on the back so I can tell which is which when gluing them together.

Image

The big task is opening the windows out to allow the interior to show through. You can just paint them black but I'd like to detail an interior.

You soak the casting with water to help and just cut out the window casting. They're left in for strength when being packed but come out quite easily.

Image

They look really good when done.

Image

There's quite a few to do! When I turned the first one over I realised I had just cut out the casting part number I had written on the back... oh well.

kathymillatt
Posts: 39
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Build a structure - Kathy Millatt - Treadwell and Ware

Post by kathymillatt » Tue Dec 09, 2014 9:50 am

Well, I did the one thing you hate doing with a hydrocal kit, I dropped a piece! All is not lost as they glue back together quite easily with hardly a joint. Not my first accident!

I started on Friday by spraying the prepared castings with Halfords grey primer.

Image

The trick is knowing when to assemble the pieces. Bob VG assembles, fills the joints and then paints. I hate doing fiddly window bits after assembly so I painted the windows before assembly.

Image

There are a lot. It takes a few seconds to type but an evening and morning to paint and that's only the first coat. It's interesting that wooden kits are so much quicker because you can spray every colour separately and then assemble the pieces.

Image

Image

I tacked the plastic window inserts, with masking tape, to a piece of cardboard.

Image

There are etched brass trims for the doors which Bob VG tells you to scratch for grain and mark the wood joints on.

Image

The Ware etched brass came with etched grain. It's quite heavy so we'll see which looks best.

Image

I then painted them with Halfords White primer. It's not the best paint but the slightly off look works for older buildings.

Image

Image

The walls sit on a 1/4" wood strip base. Of course I used the base plan, glued them down and when I test fit the walls, remembered that the plan was wrong by 1/2". Doh.

Image

I glued the first three walls as they all have the same base level.

Image

When I was fitting the last wall, it somehow slipped. Oooops.

Image

Thankfully it's not the first time I've had a cracked wall. They sometimes break in shipping too. A few minutes later it looked like this but I did have a break to throw some ground foam around in the loft to steady my nerves.

Image

When I returned, I flipped the windows and painted the back side.

I also assembled the spare brick building. It will go somewhere and it's easier to do it whilst I have the instructions and plans out.

Image

I always use white glue to assemble as it gives you time to wiggle the castings. Both the buildings have odd levels. I used piles of business cards to create a firm base for the big mill whilst gluing as it rests on the canal walls. It seems a couple out in level so I will either sand the walls or, more likely, slip some business cards underneath. This smaller building stumped me until I realised I had forgotten to put the 1/4" wood strips underneath. Thankfully the glue hadn't set.

Image

I want to put an interior in the mill so I knocked up some floors from card, braced the edges and then sprayed them both sides with white to seal them.

Image

At the same time I sprayed some pillars green. I do need to do the wooden floors so I'll either use stained balsa wood or print some wood colour up. I have a few bits for the interior to give it substance but need to work on it.

I sprayed the inside white for the interior walls but should have been a bit less heavy handed. The paint is always a bit thin but it ran through in some places. Good thing I still have to paint the walls stone colour.

Image

At this point I went to see Paddington at the cinema. Well worth a view as it was funny. I got back and did a couple more hours. After not modelling for months, I'm on a roll.

I filled the gaps and having spread the putty all over the place in the past, filling all the lovely brick mortar lines, this time I used a trick I had seen and masked a small strip only. It keeps the putty under control. I use a Deluxe Materials acrylic putty and it thins nicely with water.

Image

Afterwards I resprayed the walls with the grey primer and used a simple paper mask to keep it off the windows. It's not perfect but I'll see what it's like in daylight in the morning.

Image

Image

Finally I started on Ware. I just glued the bracing on. Vital on any piece of card in a kit.

Image

I used my secret weapon to keep everything flat. A brick.

Image

I think that's enough for one day and I needed my sleep but here's a couple if mill photos to show the colour scheme on the stone that I'm aiming for:

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

I started off Sunday afternoon by gluing Ware together.

Image

I wasn't too happy with the joints so I added more putty. Bob's instructions recommend filling every other one as well as the joint, which I did. I'm still not uber happy with the result.

Image

I assembled the annex but didn't attach it to the main building as it seemed a bit unwieldy for painting. You can see the refilled joints look a little better.

Image

I sprayed a light White Halfords primer coat on the buildings as the grey is a bit dark. Still not sure about those joints.

Image

Then it was on to painting. The key tools are a reference photo, paint and brushes/sponges.

Image

The first coat was a quick splodge of Tamiya wooden deck tan. It masks the joints a bit.

Image

This has not been a great joint. For a start the annex building is U-shaped which is stressy on joints but the base is not even either as two walls sit on the higher canal walls. I added some wood braces and disused the joint with superphatic glue. Next morning it was rock solid.

Image

I left the canal walls dark grey underneath for some variety.

Image

Here's what the wall looks like dry on Monday morning.

Image

kathymillatt
Posts: 39
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Build a structure - Kathy Millatt - Treadwell and Ware

Post by kathymillatt » Fri Dec 12, 2014 9:33 am

It's been a busy week on the run up to Christmas. We realised the Hobbit is out on Friday so fitted in 8 hours of the 3D versions of the first two films, plus a meal out and Pilates. I did find time on Monday night to mock up the diorama whilst I was waiting for the decorator. I'm not sure whether the brick building or the concrete block extension will make it on. Probably not.

Image

Image

Image

Image

I'm a bit of a dabbler when it comes to painting, especially something as varied as stone. I'll do a number mber of coats of different colours and different types of paint. Last night I used some Vallejo Buff dabbed on with a brush followed by a coat of Mig Wash in Sand.

Image

The buildings are beginning to look better but still some way to go.

Image

Image


Two of these have not had the second coat yet. You can see the difference the wash makes in tying things together. It also sits in the cracks which helps as they were very grey.

Image

I'm finding it weird not having any comments so if there's anything you want to ask or know then either go to my website: http://www.kathymillatt.co.uk or to my facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/kathy.millatt

kathymillatt
Posts: 39
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Build a structure - Kathy Millatt - Treadwell and Ware

Post by kathymillatt » Wed Dec 24, 2014 4:44 pm

I realise that I am miles behind in my updates. I do put them on my website which automatically posts them into Facebook but doesn't put them here too!

I managed to get quite a few more layers of paint on the walls and also went over to see Robin's layout. He's modelling 2010 Seattle and it looks really good.

I used some more splodged layers and then some lighter layers of these colours:

Image

First up was some Iraqi Sand splodged on.

Image

Then it was a dilute coat of the Tan Earth with some Windex to get it to flow.

Image

Finally, a thin glaze of Deck Tan to lighten the colour.

Image

I finally used a neutral Mig wash for the mortar lines and as a final light wash coat. I tried the dark earth wash first. Too dark.

Image

I love the neutral wash and use it on everything.

Image

I painted the brick when that was dry with a mix of Vallejo burnt Cadmium red and an orange.

Image

Image

That was a tad dark compared to my prototype mill:

Image

What did we do before Google Earth!

I mixed up some orange and white oils with some turps:

Image

Image

I daubed it on and stippled it a bit and left it all to dry.

Image

Image

Image

I added a dark Mig wash. It will look better when dry. Promise.

Image

I do prefer real glass in windows so I added glass cover slips cut with an glass scribing tool.

Image

I've fallen foul of glossy walls syndrome! The washes often dry a bit glossy:

Image

I sprayed the ubiquitous dullcote on and I can't say they look much better:

Image

I'm going to give them time to really cure and let the solvents dry out. Hopefully a few Mig pigments will stop any lingering glossy spots.

I've now a lovely pile of bits of buildings waiting for windows.

Image

My favourite magazine arrived yesterday. Always very inspiring:

Image

I managed to do a little at the weekend but then the lurgy struck and I've hardly been out of bed except to drag myself to work for one day. The other two I just couldn't!

I started off by re-painting the white which had become quite mucky when I was painting the stonework etc. You can see the difference it makes

Image

I test fit the windows and glued them in place.

Image

A Mig cold grey wash helped tie them in.

Image

I added the etched brass door trim which needed some judicious filing to fit.

Image

I also realised I was missing 8 Grandt Line 5179 windows. I don't gave any of those but do have some similar Tichy ones. They'll need filing down to fit.

Image

There's loads more windows to go...

kathymillatt
Posts: 39
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Build a structure - Kathy Millatt - Treadwell and Ware

Post by kathymillatt » Tue Dec 30, 2014 9:58 pm

It's lovely to have a few days off and get some modelling in. I'm feeling better so modelling is great recuperation...

I've lost track of all I've been up to but I've been cracking on through Treadwell and Ware.

I put the canal walls in place and glued them in.

Image

They sit under the main mill building.

Image

I put the walls under the ell too. It's a bit wonky do they are too to match.

Image

I had to chop the near wall off to fit on. That'll be a useful spare bit of wall left over.

Image

The mill has an outflow for the mill race that comes out in a circular hole. It has a gate that can be opened and closed. Bob VG modelled it closed but I fancied a bit of gushing water. There are NBWs on the outside.

Image

I put it in place. The wall was a bit high and I was bored of cutting foam so I melted it with ambroid, a solvent. I propped the walls with squares whilst the glue was drying.

Image

Image

I put a piece of card coloured black behind to block the blue out.

Image

I'd not cut the dam so I must do that soon but first I put on a coat of Tamiya Buff.

Image

Here's the first coat. More work is needed. That's the piece of card too.

Image

The good thing about large kits is that whilst one thing is drying you can be doing something else.

I have also been doing interiors. Ware has a raised floor with a basement so I put the floor in, added walls and interior doors where needed.

Image

Image

The brick extension and concrete extension interiors also got done. This is the concrete interior with a back wall. I used some cheap plastic doors I had knocking about from an old kit.

Image

This is the final result.

Image

I put blobs of glue over the LEDs that I'm using. They're 1.4mm x 1mm so I now buy the pre-wired versions. So much easier.

Image

I bought some jewellery thingymajigs in the U.S. which I'm using as lightshades. I painted the interiors white and left the outsides in the bronze colour they came in.

Image

Because I'm doing interiors with lights, it's always good to make the roof removable. I braced the apex of the main roof with some card off cuts and then trimmed it as per the instructions with wood.

Image

I always prepaint the strip wood in batches.

Image

The roof underside is trimmed and there are eaves returns. The eaves wood trim is glued to the building and the rest is removable.

Image

There's so much strip wood that I keep a running total of how many pieces are left.

Image

The next thing up was the dormers. There are fronts and sides. The sides are clapboard which Bob VG uses the best technique ever to weather. Rubber cement such as Copydex smeared on with a cocktail stick. I painted a sudgy grey base coat over the top.

Image

Image

I then used masking tape to pull the rubber cement off.

Image

I would normally colour the wood first but I was being adventurous so I stripped the paint off and then weathered it with Mig Aged Wood wash.

Image

It dries ok:

Image

I trimmed the dormer fronts (don't worry, the white will weather down).

Image

And then added the corner posts. I sand a lot of the corners to just even up things but you can see the difference it makes here.

Image

Bob VG says to glue the fronts in place on the roof and line them up. Then to put the sides in place. I did that. It didn't work. I think the important thing is if something isn't working for you then stop and try it a different way. This wasn't working, the dormers were sanded to a 45 degree angle but it just wasn't lining up. I ripped them off and am trying a different method.

It left a few rips and tears but I'm much happier.

Image

The mess afterwards:

Image

Quite a few bits were broken but nothing that glue couldn't fix. I sanded off any dried glue and went to plan B: gluing the dormers together on the worktop and then installing them.

Image

Image

When they are rock solid I will sand the bottoms on line with each other.

Image

I added the dormers in and managed some Christmas shopping too. Not too much.

I much preferred doing the dormers this way.

Image

They line up really nicely.

Image

I added in a grey/black interior so it wouldn't show through the glass windows.

Image

Next up were the roofs:

Image

I realised that I hadn't put the windows in. Not sure where that was in the instructions.

Image

I trimmed them out and then weathered them with a Mig Cold Grey wash. The one on the right has been weathered.

Image

Here they are finished for the day.

Image

Next up was more or less the same for the cupola. I'm not quite done yet.

Image

This modelling can be hazardous for your help. Every time I glue something I open my glue bottle like this:

Image

Now I've got blisters!

Image

kathymillatt
Posts: 39
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Build a structure - Kathy Millatt - Treadwell and Ware

Post by kathymillatt » Tue Jan 06, 2015 9:44 pm

It's a new year but the modelling continues. I'm still working on the diorama but have moved on to the Ware building.

I put some glue blobs over the LEDs and glued lamp shades in place.

Image

I then glued the LEDs in place on the inside of the roofs.

Image

I've put some rough bits of plastic into the extensions to give them some life. You can peek through the windows and see furniture. It's difficult to take photos though!

Image

Image

Image

These are some of the castings I'm painting. Not sure what to do for the inside of the mills yet.

Image

I finished off the cupola.

Image

And then glued it in place.

Image

The Ware roof has loads of clerestories. It starts with a piece of card and loads of instructions!

Image

There are some laser cut pieces which are scored to represent planks, braced,

Image

And put under a brick to dry.

Image

I did the same treatment as with the Treadwell dormers. They needed sanding at the top to the 45 degree angle. I started the painting with Copydex and then painted with the grey mix of Vallejo white and black grey.

Image

When it was touch dry, I used masking tape to remove the Copydex.

Image

Finally, I used the Mig Aged Wood wash.

Image

I like how it dries.

Image

Image

The clerestory sides are made from card with laser cut square shingles to represent asbestos.

Image

The shingles are attached to the back using a glue tape. It's pure glue and very easy to use for shingling.

Image

You then turn it over and cut the triangles out. I labelled the backs as the two sides are opposite!

Image

I assembled the clerestory on the worktop ensuring it was square and lined up, added the windows and trim then sides. Each clerestory then slots into a hole in the roof.

Image

I added the roofs and then trimmed the clerestories with two layers of strip wood glued together, painted and then cut to length.

Image

Finally, I put some neodymium magnets in place to hold the roof down. It's still a bit rocky so I'll have to check again in the morning.

The slow points in most of my builds are the interior and the roofs.

I finished off my holiday roofing and have been doing a few strips of shingles every night.

First off I had to tidy the roofs up. There was a slight gap underneath and the roof was just rocking slightly.

Image

A bit of judicial trimming of the interior walls and clerestories helped. I then added strips of HO 2" x 12" wood painted white underneath the eaves. 45 degree corner cuts make it all neat. It adds a small extra big of depth which was all that was needed to cover the gap but also seats the roof exactly making it a much more robust fit.

Image

You can see that the roof is not square with the wood. This is partly because the buildings are not quite square but this helps line everything up.

Image

Image

I did the same for the brick extension but used scale 8" for the outer strip.

Image

I cut eaves ends by measuring the two pieces of 2" x 12" wood.

Image

The instructions specify cutting a shape at the end. The pieces are so small that I just didn't bother.

Image

The trim is made up of pieces of 1" x 4", 1" x 6" and 1" x 8" pieces of wood glued together then cut to fit. I filed every corner smooth.

Image

You can see the eaves ends in place.

Image

I also did the concrete extension even though I probably won't use it. It will be a nice extra at some point.

Image

I glued some interior lights in place. It looks globby but you don't see the ceiling.

Image

Image

This is the final roof interior. I do like it!

Image

The Ware sections are roofed with tarpaper. Most mills seem to have flat roofs so it looks prototypical. The black paper comes with the kit and is cut into 3' strips.

[img]ttp://www.kathymillatt.co.uk/blog/wp-content/ ... mage35.jpg[/img]

I used the glue tape. It's like double sided tape without the tape and really easy to use.

Image

Image

Image

The kit comes with Campbell's shingles. I have never used them and they just didn't seem right for the building. I can imagine them as shingle shakes but not a slate or tile roof.

Image

I looked at my shingle stash. I have some beautiful shingles but only enough of one type.

Image

These are my favourite but I don't have enough. I'll probably use them on the brick building.

Image

These are fish scale shingles. I can't find a prototype photo but they are better than my other options.

Image

The roof is really complex.

Image

It does take a long time!

Image

Image

Image

Until it's finally finished (on one side at least).

Image

kathymillatt
Posts: 39
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Build a structure - Kathy Millatt - Treadwell and Ware

Post by kathymillatt » Sat Jan 10, 2015 10:24 pm

I spent half the day shingling after a few hours in the week.

Image

Finally it was done.

Image

Image

There's a few sections where shingling up the dormers made the slates go out of sync. I ended up putting some half shingles here which I hadn't needed on the half of the roof. Hopefully it won't show when painted up. Some of the ridge tiles have lifted a bit. We'll see if it settles down.

Image

It is common, and Bob VG recommends, to colour the shingles with felt tip pens.

Image

I used a grey shade first.

Image

Image

Then I used two brown shades.

Image

I then used a much darker brown shade.

Image

I wasn't happy with the result. The colour lacks the depth of reality. So I thought I would try a few coats of enamel washes to unify the colour and tie everything together

I masked the windows and then sprayed the roof with a liberal coat of Dullcote.

Image

I used a Mig Neutral wash first. You can see it on the right of the roof.

Image

It's a step in the right direction when you compare the depth it gives but I still wasn't happy.

Image

Each individual slate has a small bit of pale grey where it goes under the slates above. I really should have coloured the slates before laying them.

I tried a black wash to see if that would help. The wash creeps under the tiles but is so thin that it doesn't sit there.

Image

I'm waiting for it to dry and then I'll try an acrylic wash. The pigments are bigger so may stay in the cracks better.

I've been thinking about the BR challenge which I'm building this for. It would normally take me 6 months to do a diorama like this and the challenge takes 3 months. I knew when I started that it would be close but with Christmas I was hopeful. It's now January and I know that with the Half Year BOD meeting and other commitments that it's unlikely I will finish by the deadline.

After last year, when I was challenged to finish stuff for my MMR and wound up modelling when I really didn't want to, I burnt out and gave up modelling for 8 months. I'm therefore very keen that I just pootle on modelling as and when I enjoy it.

I am someone who needs deadlines to be motivated but if my hobby becomes too driven, it becomes a chore rather than a joy. I model for fun not work. I love being engrossed in something that uses completely different skills and thought processes to my day job.

That's a long winded way of saying that this may not be finished by 1st March but it will get done. Then I can get on with a bit of TLC on my layout and, of course, Optimus Prime!

kathymillatt
Posts: 39
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Build a structure - Kathy Millatt - Treadwell and Ware

Post by kathymillatt » Sun Jan 11, 2015 8:28 pm

I wanted more depth to the colours so I added a wash of Tamiya Green Black diluted with water.

Image

The roof is a bit too green but I like the depth I'm now getting.

Image

Image

I followed it up with a Mig Neutral wash.

Image

The ridge tiles have been bothering me. They are too even and a bit large. Hmmmm. I added dark lines and some colours with felt tip pens.

Image

I wanted to add some mottling and lichen. I used Ash White Mig pigments with green, yellow and white Vallejo paints.

Image

I splodged it on a section and it was too stark (top right) and then used the neutral wash to tone it back down a bit (middle right).

Image

Image

Image

Here's what it looks like after the was. I did the whole roof. I do like it. It suits the building colours better.

Image

I'm letting it all dry so I moved it on to the "L".

Image

There's another dormer on the side.

Image

The one end has no supports so there is a brace for the walls and the roof section. I wish I had read on to this because I've already added my own braces. I did find the walls shifted when I had the problems with the loose joint. My "L" is not square. Oops. I added the roof brace before I realised how wonky it was...

Image

There's a gap to the right of the front roof.

Image

I put some cardboard in the gap and had to move the dormer gap to the right a bit too

Image

I added some bracing at the other end of the building too because the roof is removable and I want to keep the roof angle. I eventually trimmed the internal brace so you can get roof on and off when the building is glued in place

Image

I put the standard 2" x 12" wood and trimmed the roof to match.

Image

I added in the roof joist too. It acts as a mask of any gaps, phew. Finally, I put a magnet under one corner to hold it down.

Image

kathymillatt
Posts: 39
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Build a structure - Kathy Millatt - Treadwell and Ware

Post by kathymillatt » Fri Jan 16, 2015 9:30 pm

There are some evenings when nothing goes right!

I built all my buildings over the templates (square ones!). However, none of my buildings are quite straight (apart from the main building). I think I know why.

Ware was ok until I tried to fit the brick extension in. That caused the one side to be slightly longer. With hindsight, I should have either cut down the brick template or added a piece of wood shim on the other side to even it out.

The L was built over the canal walls and I swear it was square when I first glued it. There's actually a square back brace but that isn't mentioned until many pages after the walls are glued. I normally read on but had missed this. Because one side wasn't braced the walls moved. I think when I glued it back I wasn't as straight as I thought I was. Because the bottom isn't level it makes it impossible to glue on the plan.

You can see how far out it is here when you see how I had to glue the canal walls which the L sits on.

Image

Finally, The dormer roof doesn't quite cover the width of the dormer but I hope the trim will sort it out.

I left it setting with masking tape and a weight holding it down.

Image

On top of that I knocked over a glass of my painting water and my tacky glue decided to dribble watery glue everywhere (apparently it has condensated and it all ran out). At this point I went out! It seemed safest.

On the plus side, my diorama is coming together and I don't think the slightly off walls will show. I won't tell if you don't!

Image

Image

kathymillatt
Posts: 39
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Build a structure - Kathy Millatt - Treadwell and Ware

Post by kathymillatt » Tue Jan 20, 2015 1:22 pm

I spent Saturday doing chores but managed to sneak in a few minutes. I'm doing the L interior.

I built a floor (not straight :) ) for the ground floor and painted it with a Mig Wash because I wanted the wood grain to show through. I also glued in a first floor - I'm not going to light this but it will allow me to put a box in the window and put a suggestion of use.

Image

You can see the dormer gap now the masking tape is off. I will put the trim on and hope it covers it.

Image

I've been working on the L since then too. I added in an attic floor and a few boxes as a view block. I'm not going to light this room so a suggestion of an interior is enough.

Image

I glued the balsa wood ground floor in place.

Image

And added a cardboard back wall. It was slightly warped so I put some hefty weights in place whilst it was drying. I've got a door to glue on the back wall too.

Image

I cut the rafter tails at 45 degree angles. I set the 90 degree guide the correct distance from the blade and used the 45 degree guide with a wood spacer to guide the wood into the chopper. It worked much better than I expected!

Image

I glued them to the wall, not the roof, as the roof is removable. Ideally I would have glued to both...

Image

I added the left over trim I had from the main building. I had just enough. Lucky!

Image

I did the dormer too. It helped fill in that gap!

Image

I've left it gluing up overnight and will then employ my secret weapon for cutting the trim: nail clippers! They are much easier then a knife to trim ends.

Image

I've been thinking about wiring up the module. The wiring will be from underneath so I need to get the wiring down to the bottom. It's easy to snag wires so I used a hot wire tool to cut a hole and then pushed a straw down to act as a smooth conduit.

Image

I've put 4 in at strategic locations under each building.

Image

kathymillatt
Posts: 39
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Build a structure - Kathy Millatt - Treadwell and Ware

Post by kathymillatt » Sun Feb 08, 2015 7:40 pm

I completed the L roof following my own blog post on the main mill roof. I didn't bother with quite so many pen colours as they don't show a lot. I also need to do the lichen but want to try a different technique.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

kathymillatt
Posts: 39
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Build a structure - Kathy Millatt - Treadwell and Ware

Post by kathymillatt » Sun Feb 08, 2015 7:45 pm

I'm lighting my buildings so need some rough interiors. I expect my windows will be grubby so the mill equipment just needs to be the right size and shape.

At Christmas I bought two packs of Micro blocks for £2. They are cheap small lego knock offs.

Image

I made some basic blocks for the mill machinery.

Image

I primed then painted them green with a hobby spray paint I had knocking around. I then added some gubbins on top to make them more interesting.

Image

This is the ground floor:

Image

Image

First floor:

Image

And the top floor is just a few view blocks:

Image

It's hard to take photos through the window:

Image

I need some knitting as it's a knitting mill so I scrunched up some tissue.

Image

I put it on a plastic bag and dripped water on it and scrunched more:

Image

My underfloor heating is excellent for drying stuff. I'm not totally sold as they are a bit large so the jury's out still.

kathymillatt
Posts: 39
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Build a structure - Kathy Millatt - Treadwell and Ware

Post by kathymillatt » Sun Feb 08, 2015 7:47 pm

I'm clearing off the last few tasks on the structures. First up was to build the link as the last building before I assemble the structures.

It's two wooden sides and a cardboard roof. I painted the laser cut walls with a Aged Wood Mig Wash, then put on rubber cement - Copydex, on the ridges before a slightly diluted coat of white Vallejo paint.

I peeled off the cement:

Image

Then used a Cold Grey Mig Wash on top. I weathered some areas with a darker Mig Wash and some AK interactive slime colours:

Image

Whilst I was at, I got organised and did the rest of the painted woodwork such as the covered stairs and porch canopy:

Image

Image

Finally I glued it in place. I left out the foundation stones that came with the kit out as my Ware knitters is lower than the brick building that the original plan joined onto:

Image

I changed how I am going to wire the diorama with only one set of straws now coming up under Ware:

Image

I cut a groove to channel the wires through under the buildings. My hot foam knife made this easy:

Image

I soldered some connectors onto the wires and Ware's roof as it is removable:

Image

The interior roof LEDs look cool:

Image

I then glued all the remaining interiors in place. This is Ware:

Image

Finally I got out my big bottle of white glue and stuck everything down!

Image

Image

For a bit of light relief I mixed up some lichen coloured paint:

Image

Then used an airbrush to splatter the paint off a brush onto the roof. Jury's out on whether it looks as good as just splodging it on. More practice is needed! I've put another Mig wash on and will try again as I realise I forgot to put the pigments in.

Image

Image

I still have to do the lighting in the main building plus the flashing and valleys on the roofs. My decorator has taken over the kitchen and I have a lot on over the next few weeks so that's it on the structures before the end of February.

kathymillatt
Posts: 39
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
Contact:

Re: Build a structure - Kathy Millatt - Treadwell and Ware

Post by kathymillatt » Sun Feb 08, 2015 7:54 pm

I'm about half way through the diorama so I thought I would post some final photos of where I have got to:

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

I got out my new camera and tried taking some night shots too:

Image

Image

Image

Image

That's it for my entry I'm afraid. I've still got loads to do. I am off to the States and won't get any more done before the dealine. Good luck to everyone else!

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest