Hi Mike / Peter,
You did say there may be a bit of a debate!!
A bit busy in the paid community so havent been able to catch up although some reading behind the scenes and a bit of designing the wiring has taken place.
Denesport Wiring Diagram V1.0 by
Dean Halls, on Flickr
In consideration the design is based on the base need for DC together with frog switching for the PECO Electrofrog points. There remains a consideration for switching to DCC as and when desired so I'm hoping that ive got it right - Im thinking a pair of "banana sockets" - connected to the block switches which will allow DC or DCC controller to be plugged in and then operate the Block switches accordingly. All constructive comments welcomed (if you can read the diagram).
One thing i did read (just before Peter commented) which I did'nt realise, is that most DCC Locos will work on DC by simply changing the loco address (0000 or other) - ive not tried it out yet but it does alter the purchase strategy for the future (DCC with or without sound as long as i can afford it).
I have also set too making a test bed for point operation to try out the options - ive now got 0.6mm Piano wire to use with a Hobby King Servo as well as a Blue Machine to try out. Ive also got seep and peco machines which i will try - it will be interesting to see what performs best driving through some 60mm depth of ply, foam and cork!!
Electro frog wiring by
Dean Halls, on Flickr
I've also had a go at melting plastic (I mean soldering!!) and using the hobby tool to make the breaks in the switch rails - all for the benefit of not having to rely on switch blade to stock rail contact. A Cyril Freezer book provided the simplest explanation - there is an awful lot of videos and "tutorials" on the web with most of them quite confusing.
Many thanks for your excellent advice - il take a look at the links youve posted and see if can get further confused!!
Regards
Dean