My NMRA-BR spec module 'Wolter Springs'

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torikoos
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Re: My NMRA-BR spec module 'Wolter Springs'

Post by torikoos » Wed Jan 09, 2013 7:56 am

That's the sort of weathering and paint scheme I was thinking of, don't want it to look too fancy, rather more generic.

We'll get there.

Koos
Koos Fockens -Devon UK. North American Model Railroading
Age is just a case of mind over matter. If you don't mind, then it doesn't matter.

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torikoos
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Re: My NMRA-BR spec module 'Wolter Springs'

Post by torikoos » Tue Jan 15, 2013 6:06 pm

I'm currently in 'structure mode', so I've started construction of a 'modern-ish' rail served warehouse.
As it needs to fit in a tight spot, and has a unusual shape due to it's angle with one of the module sides, I've decided to scratch build it. In build style it will be similar to 'Allied Chemicals' by Great West Models (part 501) as in being a modern structure with externally visible pillars.

Here's a picture of it's humble beginnings.

Koos

Image
Warehouse build by K2K Koos, on Flickr

Image
Warehouse build by K2K Koos, on Flickr
Koos Fockens -Devon UK. North American Model Railroading
Age is just a case of mind over matter. If you don't mind, then it doesn't matter.

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torikoos
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Re: My NMRA-BR spec module 'Wolter Springs'

Post by torikoos » Wed Jan 16, 2013 7:31 pm

Gloriousnse wrote:Nice - I'd suggest that kit looks really good for a US elevator (although many tend to have a real random collection of structures as they have been expanded over time)...

A quick blast of silver, then some rusty streaks and you're sorted. :)
Well, as you said, a quick blast is was, a £3.50 can of 'chrome/steel' spray paint took care of that. Next will be brush painting some of the details in a different shade to give it some interest and then comes the fun bit, Weathering :-)

Koos

Image
Silo repainted by K2K Koos, on Flickr
Koos Fockens -Devon UK. North American Model Railroading
Age is just a case of mind over matter. If you don't mind, then it doesn't matter.

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Re: My NMRA-BR spec module 'Wolter Springs'

Post by torikoos » Wed May 29, 2013 10:23 am

A small update,

My module wiring is completed and I've attached the two board together again to continue work on the scenery.

Here is an overview shot:
Image
Overview Wolter springs by K2K Koos, on Flickr

And here is a side view with the freshly painted fascia , I wanted a green colour, but I could not find a decent shade in the local DIY store, and for only two boards I did not want the expense of mixing a colour if minimum delivery would be 5 liters....

Image
Fascia painted by K2K Koos, on Flickr

Koos
Koos Fockens -Devon UK. North American Model Railroading
Age is just a case of mind over matter. If you don't mind, then it doesn't matter.

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Re: My NMRA-BR spec module 'Wolter Springs'

Post by torikoos » Wed Jun 05, 2013 8:44 pm

And now for some patches of grass.

Here's a first area that so far, has received 3 different types of grass and bushes.
Heki Savannah 1574 wild grass, which comes in mats and needs tearing/cutting. I find this a bit 'rough' and long on it's own , but the trick is to blend it.
Heki Summer wild grass 1842, which comes on paper backing and can be peeled off and glued down.
Woodland Scenics T63 light green coarse turf.
This has been glued on top of a basic layer that was already there for a while, of Woodland scenic blended turf 'Earth' T50
.
There's still much more to add, but it's starting to come together, and while I dabbled in this before, this time it really hit home that realistic looking scenery is all about blending colours and textures, I've still got another 3 bags of colours and textures aside to blend in with the current ones.

Image
Wild grass field two by K2K Koos, on Flickr

Koos
Koos Fockens -Devon UK. North American Model Railroading
Age is just a case of mind over matter. If you don't mind, then it doesn't matter.

Mike_R
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Re: My NMRA-BR spec module 'Wolter Springs'

Post by Mike_R » Wed Jun 05, 2013 9:19 pm

My static grass applicator arrived today, not the super expensive Noch one!
I've already tried it out, the crossing module now has a green hillock. I'm waiting see how well it sticks.
It does need some taller grass like yours and some bushes.
Mike Ruby

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torikoos
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Re: My NMRA-BR spec module 'Wolter Springs'

Post by torikoos » Wed Jun 05, 2013 10:21 pm

Did you get the 'tea strainer' model from e-bay? (I built one myself, which I have at home from an electric fly swatter, and a teastrainer :-) )
It works fairly well , but tickles when you touch it :-)
I've been using water diluted PVA glue, and so far it sticks quite well, although it takes a few days to harden properly, depending on how much you diluted it.
(I also mix in additional washing up liquid to release the tension even further).

Koos
Koos Fockens -Devon UK. North American Model Railroading
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Re: My NMRA-BR spec module 'Wolter Springs'

Post by Mike_R » Thu Jun 06, 2013 8:29 pm

torikoos wrote:Did you get the 'tea strainer' model from e-bay?
I bought the £25 one from fmr, looks like a tea strainer.

I started with 50% PVA, the grass stuck fairly well, but I can see too much ground through it, the second go was with a stronger solution and the grass stuck better.
I read if the glue is too strong the grass doesn't stand up well. I will continue to experiment, but am quite happy so far.
Mike Ruby

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torikoos
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Re: My NMRA-BR spec module 'Wolter Springs'

Post by torikoos » Thu Jun 06, 2013 10:33 pm

I found that another issue is how long and how close you keep the applicator to an area. If the room is very quiet and you leave an applicator in one area, the static charge builds up and the fibers can be heard 'shooting' out of the device, and the strength of the field keeps them upright better.
A thicker solution will obviously help in strengthening them in that position, but a denser grass helps too as they get to rest against each other a bit.
Don't forget to randomly press some down with a flat screwdriver or similar to make it look a bit more 'wild', and less manicured.

As with everything, practice makes perfect.

Koos
Koos Fockens -Devon UK. North American Model Railroading
Age is just a case of mind over matter. If you don't mind, then it doesn't matter.

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Re: My NMRA-BR spec module 'Wolter Springs'

Post by Mike_R » Mon Jun 10, 2013 11:42 am

Holding the empty applicator close to the grass is a great idea, as you say it makes the fibres stand straighter, and causes a more uneven result.
I've tried doing a second layer and that works as well. A spray of cheap hair spray seems to give a good final fixing.

To get the loose fibres back I've used my rechargeable hand vacuum, with a paper towel across the end of the crevice tool which goes into the vacuum. That collects the fibres until I turn it off over a container, when they all fall out (a tap of the tool helps). I do this before the hair spray.
Mike Ruby

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Gloriousnse
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Re: My NMRA-BR spec module 'Wolter Springs'

Post by Gloriousnse » Sun Jun 16, 2013 11:15 pm

Quick tip from Mel Rogers as we were discussing this over the weekend, he agrees that getting the PVA mix correct is very important, he says Greenscenes markets a pre-mixed one to the perfect mix for static grass application.
Martyn Read

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torikoos
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Re: My NMRA-BR spec module 'Wolter Springs'

Post by torikoos » Mon Jun 17, 2013 4:45 pm

From grasses to bushes and trees.

I've now taken delivery of a few boxes of Noch nature trees, or 'super trees' as Scenic express calls them.
To my knowledge, this product was first mass marketed by 'Anita Decor', and they were initially known as 'sea foam'....

The messy bit is to sort them , remove all the little 'leaves' with tweezers etc. Then I soak them for a while in wet water, and then soak them some more in a strong diluted PVA mixture, and I've put them on a washing line to dry. Some bend ones I weigh down with some cloths pins to straighten them a bit, and wait till they dry. The white droplets on the picture is some glue that will drip off, so put some news papers underneath it if you are doing this indoors or elsewhere where you don't want the floor ruined. ;-)

Image
Trees by K2K Koos, on Flickr
Koos Fockens -Devon UK. North American Model Railroading
Age is just a case of mind over matter. If you don't mind, then it doesn't matter.

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Re: My NMRA-BR spec module 'Wolter Springs'

Post by Mike_R » Mon Jun 17, 2013 9:20 pm

Gloriousnse wrote:Quick tip from Mel Rogers as we were discussing this over the weekend, he agrees that getting the PVA mix correct is very important, he says Greenscenes markets a pre-mixed one to the perfect mix for static grass application.
After trying Pledge Klear floor polish for ballast, see Trevor Smith's Kaley Yard, I tried a bit of static grass with it, seems to work well, and no mixing, but less control over where it spreads. Plus I suspect it will work well for a second coat of grass.
Mike Ruby

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Re: My NMRA-BR spec module 'Wolter Springs'

Post by torikoos » Tue Jun 25, 2013 7:10 pm

Some health and safety tips:

Those who regularly attend modular railroad meets etc probably all experienced the occasional crawling under modules and then standing up a moment too soon, either resulting in your back or head having a close encounter with a module board.
Similarly, some might have encountered splinters when lifting boards around, particularly after they've gotten a bit worn or damaged due to frequent handling, a little rough around the edges shall we say.. (particularly the boards, the below solution is not so much suitable for persons...)

I think I found a relatively elegant solution that will prevent injuries somewhat, perhaps not all of the pain, nor will it stop trains from derailing when aforementioned heads bump the boards a bit too eagerly.
I've used some foam insulation tubing, (the kind used to insulate water pipes etc) of the smallest diameter I could find.( mine have a cross section of 30mm).
Cut them open length wise (usually they already have a cut pre-prepared, or even have sticky backing sides in the groove). and to the correct length and fit them to the bottom edge of the long sides of the board. Not only will this give a nice finishing touch to the board, it is also helpful when lifting boards so they don't dig in your hand, let go of splinters, and soften the blow when standing up too soon after checking for electrical faults, clamping boards , adjusting legs etc etc...

Of course it will also work well for fascias on the home layout.

Koos
Image
Bumper edge by K2K Koos, on Flickr

Koos
Koos Fockens -Devon UK. North American Model Railroading
Age is just a case of mind over matter. If you don't mind, then it doesn't matter.

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BrianMoore
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Re: My NMRA-BR spec module 'Wolter Springs'

Post by BrianMoore » Tue Jul 02, 2013 5:08 pm

torikoos wrote:I've received my turnout motors, and installed the first one.

Image
Turnout motor install by K2K Koos, on Flickr

They are supplied by Conrad Electronics, a German electronics retailer similar to Maplin in the UK. They also have a UK webshop, and you can order these motors in packs of 3 for very cheap. The link is http://www.conrad-uk.com . Have a look under the modelrailway section and look at track accessories. 3 drives cost £13,99.
These are motorised drives, so not coil driven like a SEEP. However they are not slow-motion drives, these switch within 0.5 seconds, but switch off at the end of the throw so you don't get any 'sound effects' such as hum etc.

They also do not have an extra switch to control the polarity of the frog, however the actuating lever is protruding at both sides of the housing, allowing for left or right hand side mounting. The unused side could easily be used to actuate a micro switch installed next to the drive, for that purpose, and that's what I am planning to do in due course.

I don't know much about the reliability of these, so time will tell, but for the money I thought it was worth a try.
Koos, I'd be grateful for more info on your switch motors. How are they powered, how do you throw them, and how do they perform?

Thanks.
Brian Moore

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